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There are many ways to grip a straight razor to shave with the grain (WTG), across the grain (XTG), or against the grain (ATG). Below we show two of the classic grips. We then utilize just one of these grips to show how to position the razor for cutting. A classic grip is one that allows shaving WTG, XTG and ATG without changing the position of the fingers. We show the classic grip for both the right hand and the left hand since many experienced shavers use both hands when shaving with a straight razor. What we show below does not cover all possible grips, especially for a shaver who uses only his dominant hand.
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Opening a Straight Razor
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Fig 1: Holding closed razor in right hand, blade up, tang to the right. Fig 2: Rotate only the handle 270°.
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Fig 1
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Fig 2
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How to hold a Straight Razor : 2 Classic GRIPS
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Fig 3: Classic grip #1: index & middle finger on top of shank, thumb on bottom of shank, ring finger on tang, scales stick up between middle and ring finger. Fig 4: Classic grip #2: index, middle & ring finger on top of shank, thumb on bottom of shank, small finger on tang, scales stick up between ring and little finger.
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Fig 3
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Fig 4
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How to hold and position the razor in both the right and left hand to cut WTG, XTG and ATG
Most experienced shavers use both their right and left hand when shaving with a straight razor. Using Classic grip #2, we will show how to position the razor in both your right and left hand to shave WTG, XTG and ATG. Note: regardless of the position of the razor, with a classic grip the location of your fingers never changes and the back of your hand always points away from your face. Remember, the optimum angle between blade and skin is 30° and be sure to move the blade in a direction at right angles to the edge (NEVER sideways, or parallel to the edge of the blade, you will cut yourself). Sometimes the best direction could be diagonal, not simply vertical or horizontal. Also remember to use your free hand (or facial contortions) to stretch the skin, creating a smooth flat surface. The most challenging parts of the face to shave are upper lip and chin. The following information is just a very general guide; it is not complete, or absolute.
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Fig 5: Right hand: downward movement on right side of face, neck, chin, under chin, upper lip.
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Fig 6: Left hand: downward movement on left side of face, neck, chin, under chin, upper lip.
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Fig 5
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Fig 6
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Fig 7: Right hand: blade moves horizontally (from left to right) on left side of face, chin, upper lip.
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Fig 8: Left hand: blade moves horizontally (from right to left) on right side of face, chin, upper lip.
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Fig 7
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Fig 8
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Fig 9: Right hand: upward movement on left side of neck, face, chin, under chin, upper lip.
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Fig 10: Left hand: upward movement on right side of neck, face, chin, under chin, upper lip.
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Fig 9
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Fig 10
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Important Note: We do not provide use instructions or straight razor counseling telephonically or via email. Straight razor shaving is a unique and individual experience which you must learn for yourself. Like working with all sharp objects, straight razor shaving can cause bodily harm. We do not guarantee or warranty the quality of a shave using any of our products or information. The use of the information on this page - and the safeguarding of children and other adults with access to the straight razor - is strictly at the liability of the user (and any other participants) and releases QED, Inc. of any type of responsibility or liability.
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